---
title: "Novel ingredient development"
description: "Develop and characterise a novel cosmetic ingredient."
image: "https://cosmetic-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/novel-ingredient-service-1200x1200-2.webp"
---
# Novel ingredient development

> Develop and characterise a novel cosmetic ingredient.

Source: https://cosmetic-labs.com/services/innovation/early-stage-biotech/ingredient-production-processes/novel-ingredient
Created: 2024-12-12T14:44:16+00:00
Modified: 2026-10-25T10:05:00+00:00
Author: Emilie SCHOL

Novel ingredient development | Cosmetic Labs

## What is Novel ingredient development?

A characterised candidate ingredient with development and evidence gaps documented.

### Why do you need this service?
Use novel ingredient development to establish a candidate material, a feasible production route and a characterization package before formulation trials. Biological activity, material identity, batch consistency and safety evidence are separate development questions.

### Who provides Novel ingredient development services?
3 company profiles linked to this service or its subservices.

Companies
## Companies linked to Novel ingredient development or a more specific service
Find below labs that added this service to their company profile. You may also [browse the full directory here](/world).

### [Ephyla](https://cosmetic-labs.com/world/europe/france/ephyla)

French biotech laboratory developing naturally derived cosmetic actives through responsible sourcing, biomimetic research and formulation support.        [See company profile](https://cosmetic-labs.com/world/europe/france/ephyla)

### [Elkay Chemicals](https://cosmetic-labs.com/world/asia/india/elkay-chemicals-pvt-ltd)

Indian specialty silicone manufacturer supplying oils, emulsions, surfactants and functional ingredients for personal-care formulations.        [See company profile](https://cosmetic-labs.com/world/asia/india/elkay-chemicals-pvt-ltd)

### [Gaia Tech AG](https://cosmetic-labs.com/world/europe/switzerland/gaia-tech-ag)

Swiss ingredient developer converting agrifood side streams into natural cosmetic actives, exfoliants and custom ingredient concepts.        [See company profile](https://cosmetic-labs.com/world/europe/switzerland/gaia-tech-ag)
Definition
## Novel ingredient development
Developing a new cosmetic ingredient involves more than detecting biological activity. Labs must establish its identity, production consistency, relevant impurities, and suitability for the proposed use. Biotechnology methods can support this work alongside chemical synthesis and botanical extraction.

### Production and characterization
Depending on the material, development may involve recombinant protein production, microbial fermentation, plant cell culture, or enzymatic modification. Plant-cell-derived extracts should not be confused with living stem cells acting in human skin.

Characterization of molecular structure using spectroscopy and chromatography
- Measurement of purity and process-related impurities
- Stability testing under relevant storage and formulation conditions
- Exploratory assessment of usable concentrations

### Safety and regulatory preparation
Safety work is selected for the ingredient, exposure, and target market. It may include cytotoxicity, irritation and sensitization assessment, microbiological quality, trace contaminants, and photostability where relevant. Applicable standardized methods should be identified rather than assumed to cover every endpoint.

Analytical reports and ingredient naming documentation, including INCI information where applicable, support subsequent review. Neither an INCI name nor early laboratory activity establishes regulatory approval or clinical efficacy. The development package should make remaining evidence gaps clear before formulation progresses.

Applications
## Applications of novel ingredient development

### Developing a characterized candidate
A peptide, fermented material or plant-cell-derived extract needs an identity and composition appropriate to its complexity. Spectroscopy and chromatography can support characterization, while impurity and batch comparisons help define a reproducible material. Plant-cell-derived extracts should not be described as living stem cells acting in skin.

### Preparing formulation and safety work
Development can compare production processes and examine storage or formulation compatibility. Concentration selection should account for activity, solubility and safety rather than a standard efficacy target. The resulting package identifies what is established and which studies remain necessary. It does not confer approval, clinical backing, patent ownership or a predictable consumer preference advantage.

ExplorationLearn more about Ingredient Production ProcessesCompare cosmetic ingredient production routes, biotechnology approaches and novel ingredient development, with feasibility and evidence gaps defined. Explore another Ingredient Production Processes page on cosmetic-labs.com.

#### [Biotechnology-Based Ingredient Development](https://cosmetic-labs.com/services/innovation/early-stage-biotech/ingredient-production-processes/biotechnology-application)
Biotechnology services develop fermentation processes and assess cellular responses to help select and characterise cosmetic ingredients. [Check this service](https://cosmetic-labs.com/services/innovation/early-stage-biotech/ingredient-production-processes/biotechnology-application)
#### [Green Chemistry & Process Development](https://cosmetic-labs.com/services/innovation/early-stage-biotech/ingredient-production-processes/green-chemistry)
Green chemistry compares cosmetic ingredient production routes by solvent use, energy needs and waste to assess process trade-offs. [Check this service](https://cosmetic-labs.com/services/innovation/early-stage-biotech/ingredient-production-processes/green-chemistry)

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What does “Verified” mean?
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---

## Site identity

- Organization: Cosmetic Labs
- Description: Cosmetic Labs is a directory and a platform to meet all your cosmetic product development needs. From sourcing raw material to finding the best CRO for your needs.
- Website: https://cosmetic-labs.com

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